Repairing the Display on a FNIRSI 1014D Oscilloscope
language
eng
date
Nov 15, 2025
slug
FIX_FNIRSI1014D
author
status
Public
tags
Daily
FNIRSI
오실로스코프
summary
Let’s try repairing the broken display on the FNIRSI 1014D oscilloscope
type
Post
thumbnail
category
🐞TroubleShooting
updatedAt
Jan 4, 2026 04:33 AM
A budget oscilloscope I’d been using happily: the FNIRSI 1014D.
These days there are quite a few Chinese oscilloscopes with good value and decent performance, but two years ago, when I was hunting for a low-cost scope, there really wasn’t anything that beat FNIRSI for the money—so I bought one and used it without issues for two years.
Then one day, while moving some lighting equipment, a heavy item slipped and slammed into the oscilloscope’s front. I didn’t notice anything right away, but later, when I needed to use it and powered it on… the screen was completely gone. The LCD had shattered into pieces.
I considered just buying a replacement from another brand, but I was also curious about what was inside. So I figured: if I’m going to throw it away anyway, I might as well open it up.
Once the case is opened, the internal layout is as simple as you’d expect for the price. There’s one main board, one display, and a silicone pad for the buttons—that’s basically it. It’s honestly impressive that this minimal set of parts can function as a real oscilloscope. But thinking about it, the 1014D doesn’t have a ton of features, so with an FPGA and a handful of components, it makes sense that it can do the job.
It’s also an oscilloscope that even a complete beginner can take apart easily—honestly, it looks easier to repair than some kids’ toys these days. Maybe that’s why people online have hacked the firmware and built custom versions, and why so much information—schematics, firmware details, and more—is available. It almost feels like an open-source oscilloscope. If I get the time, I’d like to try modifying the firmware someday.
As for the display, once you unlock the connector and pull out the FFC cable, it looks like the screen can be replaced pretty easily. So the main challenge is simply finding a compatible replacement display.
(That said, FFC cables tear easily—if your display is already broken, it’s worth practicing locking/unlocking the connector first. You don’t want to mess up when it’s time to install the new screen.)
If you search online, you’ll find a few compatible models. In Korea, you mostly end up going through overseas purchasing agents, so it’s usually simpler to buy directly from AliExpress. The product I used is below.
(*As of 2025-11-16, the listing shows the correct part, but sellers can change a page without warning—so double-check compatibility before you buy!)
“Found on AliExpress: LCD screen, 7DD1 + 1 FPC, AT070TN90 V.1, AT070TN92 V.X, 7 inch …”
Key things to watch:
- Choose a model with the same specs
- Make sure it’s not a touchscreen
- Matching thickness is ideal (In my case there was no thickness option, so I ordered anyway. Now the listing has thickness options, so it’s better to choose the right one.)
- The thickness was slightly different. The one I bought is a bit thinner, but it still works fine.
* The thickness was slightly different. The one I bought is a bit thinner, but it still works fine.
Shipping took about a week. Some people recommend buying two in case it breaks during delivery, but mine arrived well protected with plenty of bubble wrap. Unless something goes seriously wrong in transit, it seems likely you’ll receive it without issues.
After attaching the new display securely inside the case, I mounted the board back in place. Because my replacement screen was thinner, if I didn’t press it firmly into position, it could float around in the gap between the board and the case. Assembly is straightforward overall—if you just focus on securing the display properly, there isn’t much else that’s difficult.
At that point, it’s basically just a matter of connecting everything.
I powered it on with my heart pounding—worried I might have received a defective panel, or a “looks compatible” part with the same pin count but different wiring. But then I saw it: a beautiful boot screen with the FNIRSI logo—something I didn’t even realize existed before.
The colors and reflections feel a little different compared to the original display, but it works perfectly—repair complete! I’ll keep using it hard, and if something other than the display fails next time, maybe I’ll try a different value-for-money model.
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